Journal of Cosmetic Science Features Anomera Article
Synopsis Cellulose is an emerging new material used in various cosmetic applications, but its common designation as a single International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients term fails to capture diversity among its many forms. To make informed choices about cellulose usage, a deeper understanding of its characteristics is essential. This study evaluates 10 different ingredients, all labeled with “cellulose” in their International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients names, to elucidate the relationship between the physical properties of cellulose powders—such as particle size, shape, and absorption profile—and their functional benefits. Testing conducted includes particle size analysis using laser scattering, oil uptake, and soft focus assessment via spectrophotometry, and optical assessment utilizing Biody® artificial skin discs. Additionally, in vivo tests on color intensity and sensory perception were performed using a statistically analyzed panel. Results indicate that optical effects are significantly influenced by particle size and shape, with smaller cellulose particles providing immediate soft focus benefits. The primary differences among the 10 celluloses examined stem from their morphological characteristics resulting from their manufacturing processes. This study demonstrates that a “one size fits all” approach is inadequate for cellulose. A comprehensive consideration of its full range of characteristics and production method is necessary to effectively leverage its performance benefits and sustainability.
